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David wrote:
But Claude Jolicoeur might be able to provide more authoritative commentary.
David,
I doubt I can make authoritative comments on the subject of dwarfing rootstock - I haven't tested enough of them for this to be of any of any scientific value - samples are simply too few to be significative!
This being said, I do have a few trees on different rootstocks. Here is a short summary:
Ott.3 - probably the best for this climate.
2 healthy trees which I am fully satisfied of.
1 OK tree, but not sturdy/solid enough in my opinion
2 weak trees, staunted, no vigor. However these were transplanted, and it is documented that this RS doesn't like to be moved.
1 Bramley on Ott.3 did well until it died - but this had nothing to do with the stock, it is the variety that wasn't hardy enough.
1 tree did well until it broke at the graft union under wind. Could have been a graft incompatibility problem with the variety (Pumkin Sweet).
MM 106:
2 trees are doing a bit less than OK, not enough vigor, little productivity.
3 other trees were never vigorous and finally died.
MM 111:
1 tree, doing a bit less than OK, not enough vigor, little productivity.
M26:
1 tree, did well until it broke at the graft union under load from the apples it was bearing.
Interstems:
Ott.3 / Alnarp 2 - this is a combination that the Corn Hill nursery in NB used to make.
1 tree is doing rather well, productive, but not so well anchored. Needs to be staked even if trunk is a good 6 in (15 cm) diameter / 20 years old.
Ott.3 / Beautiful Arcade - another combination from Corn Hill
1 tree, doing a bit less than OK, not enough vigor, little productivity.
1 tree lacking vigor, finally killed by borers.
Claude
Jolicoeur OrchardZone 4 in Quebec