Scion grafting follow up

Hello,
I've wondered this for a good while: when doing scion grafting, one scion usually is doing better than the other (or the second one fails).... so what does one do? Cut out the second one completely? How completely? Like an angle from the middle of the root stock?

Leaving the second one means either a level place to catch moisture and/or a dead stick rotting slowly and/ or ???? At a place that can be a weak place in a grand storm.

Odd that I've never seen this topic mentioned in books with grafting in them. What's your experience?
thanks so much
Robbie
Morninglory Farm
Killaloe ON Zone 3

Morninglory Farm
Zone 3b* in Ontario

Usually I have no idea what the answers to anything are, but this one is dead simple. You cut the branch (or stock) back obliquely from the good, (or better) scion. Or, more accurately, you cut obliquely from the weak (or failed) side up to the base of the good scion, being careful not to cut into the good scion. The stock will heal in over the next couple of years.

Broomholm Orchard
Zone 5b in Nova Scotia

And I'm not sure I even understand the question! Are we talking about a cleft graft with a scion placed on each side of the limb? Or even multiple bark inlay grafts made around the circumference of larger limbs? I look for each scion to take in these types of grafts (not that that always happens) and early on I will pinch back to one shoot per scion (assuming you left two buds to double the odds). I'll let both grow out several inches before I "head" the weaker of the two. That way more growing energy goes into the remaining shoot . . . but just as importantly . . . the callus on the other side of the limb still receives growth energy to help close over the exposed limb stub. I may or may not eventually prune off this secondary growth, depending on the space to be filled.

Lost Nation Orchard
Zone 4b in New Hampshire